Breakfast featured jams made in house, yogurt made in house, and a couple of traditional Sardinian things. One of which was a honey made with pollen, and orange shavings, and that was drizzled over ricotta cheese, surprisingly good.
We left the Costa Smeralda behind and headed west. It’s funny how quickly the landscape changes, the rocks turned into trees, fields full of cows, and barely a house in sight. After a truly wonderful ride we arrived at Castelsardo. The church of Santa Maria di Tergu is supposed to be very nice, but there was a wedding going on so we couldn’t go inside. The historic center sits on top of the hill and is fairly small with tiny pedestrian streets. It might be the most aromatic spot we’ve been to, or that could be because it was lunch time and everyone was cooking with open windows. For us it was a stop off between the Costa Smeralda and Alghero, and that’s just about what it should be for everyone. Worth a walk around, but not really a destination in and of itself.
We continued up the coast to the very northern tip of the island. You go through an industrial area but don’t let that put you off. Stintino is another beach and sailing community with beautiful water and rock beaches. There isn’t really much to say about it beyond that, but for a swim and a suntan it’s definitely a good spot.
Southward bound again, and about 60 Km to Alghero, which is the tourist hub of Sardegna or so I read. There are definitely more restaurants here than anywhere else we’ve been. Alghero was invaded and subsequently repopulated by the Aragonese (Catalan region of northern Spain) so the architecture, language, and cuisine are heavily Spanish influenced. The old center sits inside high defensive walls and the streets are lined with shops. The nightlife seems to be lively, though more towards hanging out with friends than to the disco scene. The Duomo is small compared to most we’ve seen, but very nice inside. The other churches that were listed on the map were not really worth searching out in my opinion. The lungomare that skirts the town is a lovely walk, the marina is huge and a little further down is a very nice sand beach. The water here is not quite as blue as before, but it’s still very clear.
Just steps from the beach, and I mean that literally, is the B&B Via Del Mare www.viadelmare45.it You leave the beach walk across the main road, through the gate and into your room. There is a kitchenette which is shared between the 3 bedrooms, and is used for breakfast in the morning. The bedroom was nice, as was the bathroom, but the terrace is where it’s at. You can sit out here all night and enjoy the breeze off of the water, and look out over Alghero. And in the morning walk out and soak in the Mediterranean. You could easily walk to the center from your room in 15 minutes. The price is good, the accommodation is nice, and Tiziano and his wife were very friendly. A definite recommendation if you are going to be in Alghero.